Saturday, April 29, 2006

Merlot Muffins

wine-cake

Though I am fairly certain these would be better classified as cupcakes, I really enjoy alliteration, hence the name. While making the fruit juice bread in my previous post, I was complaining to my mother about the fact that there is beer bread, but no wine bread or cider bread, and she rememebered having had a wine cake years ago. She found the recipe a friend had submitted to a church cookbook -- one of those frighteningly midwestern collections of recipes for meaty cheese dishes and cheesy meat dishes the whole family will love. The recipe called for some cooking sherry and eggs to be added to a yellow cake mix to make a cake with a poundcake-like texture and density.

I decided instead to add some red wine to a delicious, but obnoxious, recipe for yellow cake I recently adapted to make a spiced chai cake for my sister's birthday. It is indeed moist and tasty, as advertised, but it also involves mixing the ingredients for a total of over 15 minutes. I suppose it's not that bad; it's just more work than I'm used to for a cake. All I did to change it was to replace the buttermilk with merlot, then I decided to bake it in muffin cups instead of a cake pan, and I put powdered sugar on top.

They are very good, and were well-liked at my mom's office, where they were brought in on a co-worker's last day. I liked the batter better than the baked cupcakes (isn't that just always the way?) mostly for its stronger wine flavor. I wonder if I made a poor wine choice. I really don't know much about choosing wines, but I thought something medium bodied and fruity would be nice. It might have been better with sherry or even port, or if I'd tried reducing the wine before adding it to the batter.

But that is often my complaint. "More flavor!" Which I think makes me something like the baking version of Tim "The Toolman" Taylor and his constant quest for "more power". Except I grunt less? We hope. Anyway, I am rarely completely satisfied with anything unless it is the life-changing sort of delicious. Fortunately, there are several things I make that I think would fall into that category, so it's not an impossible standard to hold myself to.

Wine Cake
Original recipe from The Well-Decorated Cake, by Toba Garrett

Ingredients
3 cups (330 g) cake flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup (8 oz or 230 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups (454 g) granulated sugar
5 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups (10 fl oz or 300 ml) red wine

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter and line with parchment paper two 8x2-inch (20x5-cm) pans. (Or about 24 muffin cups.) Set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

3. Cut up the butter into 1-inch pieces and place them in the large bowl of an electric mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment or beaters. Beat for 3 minutes on MEDIUM-HIGH speed until the butter is light and creamy in color. Stop and scrape the bowl. Cream the butter for an additional 60 seconds.

4. Add the sugar, 1/4 cup at a time, beating 1 minute after each addition. Scrape the sides of the bowl occasionally. Add the eggs one at a time.

5. Reduce the mixer speed. Stir vanilla into the buttermilk. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the wine. Mix just until incorporated. Scrape the sides of the bowl and mix for 15 seconds longer.

6. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a knife. Lift up the pan with the batter, and let it drop onto the counter top to burst any air bubbles, allowing the batter to settle.

7. Center the pans onto the lower third of the oven and let bake 45 to 50 minutes (or about 30 for muffins, depending on their size) or until the cake is lightly brown on top and comes away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Note: Let the cake cool in the pan. Storage: Double wrap the cake in plastic wrap. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
Yield: Two 8-inch (20-cm) cakes

9 Comments:

At 9:32 PM, Blogger Cam said...

Actually, it's funny you say there's no wine breads, 'cause I just flipped through a French baking cookbook the other day at my girl's bookstore and there's a whole section in there called "Breads Made with Wine."

It intrigued me, but wine is currently beyond my sphere, so I get a bit more excited over stuff like your POM Fougasse.

 
At 7:02 AM, Blogger Matthew said...

Looks intriguing. If you made them with merlot but found that not sufficiently flavourful, I wonder what they might be like with something a little more full-bodied, like a California Zinfandel or Australian Shiraz? Presumably, you'd want something in a New-World style, with lots of big fruit up front, and either of those two would fit the bill.

 
At 9:00 AM, Blogger the foppish baker said...

Cam > Really? Do you remember the title at all? It is all beer breads here.

Matthew > Hm, thanks for the suggestions. I always feel pretty lost in the wine aisles...

 
At 9:13 PM, Blogger Cam said...

No, I'm afraid it wasn't an impressive enough book to warrant my, er, reading the title. However, the establishment in which I discovered it is the same one my girlfriend works in, so I'll be there again soon. Friday, I believe.

With regards to the Neapolitan Fougasse, Trader Joe's has a juice called Sir Strawberry that is quite red. It's more apple and white grape juice than strawberry, but it's worth a taste, I think!

 
At 11:48 AM, Blogger the foppish baker said...

For the neapolitan, I was thinking I'd do cocoa powder, vanilla bean, and then a strawberry puree for the pink part. If I use frozen strawberries, they stay pretty red. I think the seeds might even be a nice touch.

 
At 8:55 PM, Blogger Cam said...

Oooh. Agreed.

Back on track with the wine bread: The book is "Confessions of a French Baker," by Peter Mayle. I personally was unimpressed, and as such I shall convey the extent of the Red Wine Walnut Bread:

- 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 3/4 cups bread flou
- 5/8 cup water
- 5/8 cup red wine
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 4 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast (Yikes.)
- 2 cups coarsely chopped walnuts

Mix, knead, add walnuts, knead until incorporated, let rise forty-five minutes, cut in two and shape into loose rounds, let rise twenty-five minutes, shape into desired end shape, let rise thirty-five to forty-five minutes, bake at four-fifty for twenty to twenty-five minutes.

To be honest, the book isn't much more detailed than that. In the other wine bread recipes, he references this one and only notes the changes. For example, in the onion and white wine bread, he says to omit the walnuts, caramelize one and a half cups chopped onion, and use a quarter cup of the white wine to deglaze the frying pan, adding this liquid to the bread recipe as well.

 
At 12:53 PM, Blogger the foppish baker said...

Weird... that is awfully yeast-heavy. The pain au lait recipes I found also called for that much, but I just halved it because that's crazy. Maybe that's why mine weren't as light as ones I've had, but still.

Also (1), it's annoying when recipes reference other ones that much. Or worse is when I notice all the recipes are the same, except for a few substitutions. ;) Better to give one recipe and note other ideas/substitutions at the bottom. Cookbook writers must be lazy these days!

Also (2), I think I figured out how I'm doing the neapolitan bread. I'll make a fairly wet dough, then divide it into three balls of 2/5, 2/5 and 1/5 of the dough, add vanilla and more flour to one of the larger ones, cocoa, sugar, and more flour to the other, then strawberry puree and a lot more flour to the smaller ball. That way there's no need to flavor them all separately from the beginning.

 
At 4:14 PM, Anonymous marcy goldman said...

hi,
what a great site on baking - foppish or not, I'm In.
Best wishes from www.betterbaking.com, in Canada

Marcy Goldman
Author.Baker/
P.s.
Love the ugly breakfast rolls - they are quaint - not quite ugly ;-)

 
At 9:33 AM, Anonymous Quynce said...

I cook a lot with wine and don't have much of a budget, and when I want a fruity red that I'm going to combine with sweet things, I go with a Shiraz (Little Penguin in particular). It makes a good mulled wine-- I think might do well in a cake/muffin recipe.

 

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